Sunday, October 14, 2007

Visiting the state in the summer or early fall is one of life's great pleasures

If you don't like picturesque New England towns overlooking sparkling harbors with little piers and sailboat masts, you probably should not visit the coast of Maine.

And if you don't like fresh lobster, crab, scallops or mussels, by all means don't go to the coast of Maine. It would be a big waste of time.

I know what you're thinking: Summer is over and I don't even have to consider another summer vacation for at least six months. And, of course, I'm not suggesting that you visit in winter. As Mark Twain is alleged to have said: Maine is cold, but it's damp.

Nonetheless, to visit Maine in the summer or early fall is one of life'spleasures that you owe yourself. And the sooner you start planning, the
sooner you'll be sitting in your own postcard, washing down lobster and crab with a cold Sam Adams.

The key to any good trip is information. So, get your hands on the most up-to-date travel books to see which part of Maine's considerable coastline you want to explore.

If you arrive in Camden, in the Midcoast region, you'll be struck by the authenticity of this old New England port. Sure, Camden is set up for visitors with various inns and a slew of quaint bed-and-breakfasts, but like most of the small towns along this coast, it hasn't surrendered its identity to tourism.

New Englanders love their towns, and their strong

traditions keep them from falling prey to bigger-is-better development.
Still, you can stroll down to the harbor and hook a ride on an old-fashioned two-masted windjammer. You'll catch the breeze for a long reach past forested islands on Penobscot Bay before coming about and hauling back to the mainland.

Once your stomach has settled, you can drop anchor dockside for a cold refresher and select your own lobster from a tank full of the crawly creatures. Set your watch for 10 minutes and voilÀ. Call it heaven. Call it Camden. What's the difference?

There are a host of other great spots along Maine's Midcoast. The most notable is quaint Boothbay Harbor. It's reportedly quite busy in July and August. But after Labor Day and before the onset of New England's colorful autumn "leaf peeping" season, you can have the place pretty much to yourself.

Stroll, or ride a bike, along the rocky coast as the warm fog rolls in and out playing watercolor magic with harbor boats and gingerbread houses. It's New England at its intoxicating best.

No tour of the Maine coast would be complete without an excursion Down East, where peninsulas and islands creep out into the cold North Atlantic. The most popular of these places is Bar Harbor near Acadia National Park on Desert Isle.

Once a gem, Bar Harbor is now, unfortunately, a tourist trap where bus after bus drops tour groups who choke the sidewalks and trinket shops. It's one of the few places along the coast that have given way to "Disneylandification" and where the food is overly expensive and decidedly mediocre. Enough said.

The more adventurous traveler will find Down East enchantment at little places like Castine, Blue Hill and Stonington. Between Memorial Day and Labor Day, reservations at the few inns there are an absolute must.

After Labor Day, you could take a chance and, if you're lucky, get the last room in tiny Stonington on Deer Isle. If you like tranquility, this is the place for you. The historic hamlet is so quiet and beautiful that you may feel as if you're walking through a dreamscape.
Breathe deep, this is relaxation.

For a little excitement, you can wander out on the pier and watch the lobster fleet come in from 2 to 3 p.m., when you'll witness lobstermen weighing in their catch of the day.

Later on, repair to the Fisherman's Friend restaurant - one of only three eateries in Stonington - and chow down on that catch as the big orange sun falls into the harbor.

If you don't like lobster, try the scallops and mussels. And if you're one of those rare birds who can't stand shellfish, you're not completely out of luck. The haddock and cod will have your endorphins doing backflips.

A little self-discipline may be required here - if you're not careful, you could eat yourself into critical condition.

On the other hand, if you don't like fresh seafood at all, you're probably better off avoiding Maine altogether. That will leave more for us lobster and crab and mussel and scallop lovers. Did I mention Sam Adams?
Source:http://origin.sltrib.com/ci_7162520

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